Without the removable pick weights, the lightweight axe feels fast and easily maneuverable on rock. Like all technical curved tools, whilst it is possible to use the hammer, it isn't amazing, but you can seat a peg if required. The Nomic 2 also has a hammer and an adze option, which can be bought separately and added if required. The standard pick on the Nomic 2 is well designed, robust and bites well on rock and ice. © Jon Griffith / Alpine Exposures Petzl Nomic 2 Misc: Anything else we picked up on that isn't in the above list. Pick ratings are slightly more complex, in that T is again stronger, and is suited to mixed climbing (but can be used for ice) whereas for pure ice many climbers prefer a thinner B rated pick. Essentially the axes that are rated 'T' are much stronger. Rating: Is the axe itself 'T' Rated or 'B' rated? And the picks are they 'T' rated or 'B' rated? B stands for basic, and T stands for technical. Was it comfortable, durable and well positioned? And does it wreck your gloves?Īttachment points: Where and how can you clip you axe to your harness, lanyard or leash? The handle: The handle is an extremely important part of any ice tool. The shaft: We looked at the durability of the shaft and its attachments, as well as the shape of the shaft for clearance and of course how the axe performed when being gripped above the bottom handle - was it twitchy? The swing: This is integral to all axes, we checked how the tools swing, and how they hook, how they are weighted - it's a 'feel' thing. Is it possible to whack in a peg? Does the pick wear down after one mixed route? We found out. The pick, adze and hammer: We looked at each pick for both shape/design and durability as well as the design of the adze and hammer if applicable. In each section of the review, we do mention additional axes from these brands, such as the Cobra from Black Diamond and the Riot from Edelrid. Likewise of course Petzl do an even more aggressive tool than the Nomic: The Petzl Ergo is not reviewed here as it is super aggressive (and a great axe) but we have tried to choose 1 top level performer from several brands. Whilst some may think the DMM Apex would be more suited to a comparison with say the less technical Petzl axe of the Quark, we have reviewed the Apex here as it is actually a more aggressive tool than the Quark, a sort of 'half-way house' between the very technical DMM Switch and the classic DMM Fly. Our choices of axe: In this review we have the Petzl Nomic 2, the Black Diamond Fusion 2, the Grivel Master Alloy, The Edelrid Rage and the DMM Apex.
#Ice climber switch professional#
These are axes for top-level professional climbers, weekend warriors and ambitious beginners. Whilst there are some even more radical axes out there on the market, the ones in this review are top end 'go anywhere' axes, seen frequently both on single-pitch drytool routes as well as the north face of the Eiger.
In this review we are focusing on a selection of high level axes that are in use right now, aimed at difficult technical climbing, but also at long routes. Of course axes have come on in leaps and bounds since then, and whilst the general principle of the ice axe may still be the same, it's fair to say that the level of technicality in axes has really shot forward in the last few years, with increasingly aggressive tools becoming the norm. The next major advance came at the turn of the 20th century from British climber Oscar Eckenstein, who developed axes much shorter than previously used, and combined them with improved crampons to create a climbing system not hugely dissimilar to the one we have today. There have been a few seasons of change in ice axe development, starting in the mid 1800s with the traditional Alpenstock (a long pole with a metal spike on the end that has been in use since the 1750s) being adapted to feature a forward facing pick. Ice axes are not a new tool, in fact they have been around for hundreds of years. With additional feedback and information from sponsored climbers / mountain guides Andy Turner (Petzl), Tim Emmett (Black Diamond), Stu McAleese (DMM), Greg Boswell (Grivel), James Thacker (Edelrid). Input for this review has come from Jon Griffith, Viv Scott, Jack Geldard, Jonny Baker, Charlie Boscoe and Nikolaus Bacht.